Edinburgh Hotels – Which One Should You Choose?
The Scottish capital of Edinburgh is a wonderful city with a rich history, incredible sights, stunning architecture, and a unique vibe. People from around the world flock here each year to explore areas such as the fascinating Old Town and trendy New Town. As such, you will find an incredible array of hotels to choose from, with something to cater to all budgets and preferences.
During a recent two-week visit to Edinburgh, I stayed at a number of different hotels to carry out reviews and write-ups – this included the 4-star Le Monde on New Town’s George Street, Virgin Hotels on the famous Victoria Street in the Old Town, Cheval the Edinburgh Grand in St. Andrew’s Square in New Town, and the iconic Balmoral Hotel in the heart of the city on Princes Street.
As you’ll see from my reviews, I had very different experiences at each of these hotels. So, read on to learn more about what to expect…
Le Monde, George Street (4-star property): 8/10
Image courtesy of Le Monde, Edinburgh
Our first hotel during this trip was Le Monde, which is a four-star property on trendy George Street in New Town. The location of the hotel is fabulous, and it is a small boutique-style property with everything you need for a comfortable stay. This includes a great bar and restaurant, friendly and accommodating staff, and a relaxed ambiance.
The prices are very reasonable at Le Monde, given its central location, so we booked one of the wonderful suites, the Tokyo Suite. All of the rooms and suites at the hotel are named after different global destinations, and all have their own unique décor and vibe. Our suite was tastefully decorated, comfortable, and homely, with beautiful décor and a wonderful sunken bath! There was a reasonably priced mini bar, too, so I didn’t have to remortgage to enjoy a tipple!
The team at Le Monde was always on hand to help with any questions, and the communication prior to our visit was also excellent. I always have a lot of questions before I visit a hotel, and the team responds both swiftly and professionally at all times. Our three-night stay at this hotel was definitely one of the highlights of my trip. We tried the food and drinks at the restaurant and bar, and both were delicious as well as affordable.
If you want to stay in the trendier part of New Town (which is within walking distance of Old Town), this is definitely one of the places I would recommend.
Virgin Hotel, Victoria Street (5-star property): 5/10
The second hotel during our trip was the five-star Virgin Hotel on beautiful Victoria Street in the Old Town. This is a relative newcomer to the luxury hotel scene in Edinburgh, and we were booked for five nights in one of the junior suites.
As it was the festive season, the communal areas of the hotel were nicely decorated with fairy lights and Christmas decorations. All of the communal areas in the hotel were inviting and appealing. However, the suite itself was pretty drab, and it felt like the entire room was made from MDF or plywood with little in terms of character or quirkiness. While there was a little red fridge to add a splash of color, the remainder was somewhat bland, albeit with a comfortable bed.
In addition, the layout of the suite was very odd. You were greeted by the sink in the hallway entrance as you walked into the room, and a shower room and toilet were opposite. You then continued walking into the living and sleeping area, but the living area was extremely small for what is an expensive suite. In fact, it was nothing more than a small settee that was joined to the bed with a table in front of it. The room looked nothing like the photos I had been sent prior to my stay when I was asked if I wanted to upgrade to a junior suite at a pretty hefty extra cost per night.
Despite the peculiar layout of the room and the lack of luxury and character, our five-night stay was not all that bad. However, I wouldn’t have marked this as a five-star hotel, as it is in a different league from luxury properties such as The Ritz, The Savoy, and one of the later ones on this list, The Balmoral.
While the team at Virgin was friendly enough, they appeared to be largely inexperienced. Upon arrival, the doorman/luggage porter was busy lurking around the corner, so they failed to see us heaving our luggage through the entrance for several minutes. Whenever I ordered room service breakfast, I received the wrong thing. This happened all three times we ordered during the stay, so I didn’t bother ordering breakfast for the other two days. Although breakfast was included in our deal, upon checkout, it had been added to the bill, so I had to contact management to get it removed.
Our room key kept getting deactivated every day or two, so we had to keep going down to get it sorted out. And various random people kept coming to or entering our room. This included a maintenance man who walked in while I was in bed because he had been told the suite was empty, a housekeeper who barged in while I was in my undies despite the Do Not Disturb sign being on, and another member of staff who knocked on the door and more or less quizzed me with regard to whether I should actually be in the room – he appeared to be very surprised that I was there and made me feel a bit uncomfortable. He did, however, return 20 minutes later with a card for two free drinks at the bar as an apology.
There are two restaurants/bars at the hotel, Eve Bar and the Commons Club. Eve Bar was a pretty relaxed place to have a drink in quiet surroundings during the week and also hosted a fun weekend brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
The Commons Club is meant to be a more upmarket place, but the attitude of the staff was questionable, particularly the manager, who first denied having a booking for me and then tried to change the terms and conditions of a meal gift experience I was using from Virgin (so they were essentially questioning their own experience voucher!). Carlos, the waiter, was pleasant, however, and this helped to make our 90 minutes there a little more relaxing. Other than this, it is not somewhere I would recommend for a meal, as it is costly, the food was not all that great, and part of the service, along with the ambiance, was definitely lacking.
All in all, the Virgin Hotel is very costly for what you get, which is a characterless MDF-style room, inexperienced staff, and a string of errors and issues day after day, although it was nothing too serious. While it was ‘okay’ as a base to explore Edinburgh, it is certainly not a hotel that I would choose to stay at for a luxury five-star experience in Edinburgh. I can honestly say that the four-star Le Monde was markedly nicer and more luxurious than the Virgin Hotel, with better service.
Cheval the Edinburgh Grand, St. Andrew’s Square (5-star property): 2/10
Image courtesy of Cheval the Edinburgh Grand
Another five-star property we stayed at was Cheval the Edinburgh Grand, and this has an enviable location on St. Andrew’s Square in the heart of New Town. However, this is where the advantages of staying at this property end, in my opinion.
We were booked into this aparthotel for four nights in a luxury open-plan suite. As we entered with our cases, there were two male reception staff behind the desk. After a minute or two, we were checked in (we were the only ones checking in) and asked if we needed help with our luggage. I expected the cases to be whisked away and taken to our room via a service lift, as they are in other five-star properties. However, one of the men simply grabbed our cases and tried to squeeze into the very small lift with us, which was embarrassing for everyone concerned. I told him to leave the cases, and we would take them ourselves, which he seemed relieved about.
Upon entering the apartment, it was pretty depressing in terms of décor. It was long, dark, and narrow, with a shabby and uncomfortable settee in front of a small-ish TV, then a desk and chair, and finally a bed at the back of the room (so you couldn’t watch TV from bed because it was too far). There was little space in the main part of the room around the bed to move around, so we had to edge our way to the front of the room sideways after getting out of bed. The suite was very narrow, and it felt very claustrophobic to me. Again, this did not feel anywhere near a five-star experience – at a guess, I would have put it down as 3-star serviced apartments.
The communal areas were nice enough, but nothing particularly special, particularly given that it was the festive season. The hotel next door was glittering with lights and festive décor, and all Cheval the Edinburgh Grand had was two wooden statues outside the front door and a Christmas tree. There was a bar on site, but you had to go outside and around the corner to get to it, as the interior entrance was used as a fire door. This bar, Lady Libertine, played extremely loud music, and we had to get someone’s attention for things like paying the bill. We ended up leaving after one drink because it was too loud.
The most worrying thing about this property is something that they describe as their ‘nightly rounds.’ While guests aren't warned about this, a member of staff creeps around during the night and lurks in corridors outside guests’ rooms to ‘do checks’. I found a male member of staff lurking outside my room in the corridor twice in one night (during the early hours). I exited the apartment at 5.00 am to get some air, and there was a man in the shadows outside my room. Rather than saying anything to me or explaining who he was, he just scurried off into the lift and disappeared. I later found out that he was the night manager.
In addition, both members of staff manning the desk overnight were wearing earphones. This meant that I could not get their attention without knocking on the desk when they finally looked up. After popping out, I had to press a buzzer to get back in, and they couldn’t hear because they had put their earphones back on. So, I had to bang on the door to get their attention, at which point a very cross-looking female member of staff from behind the desk let me in without any apology (without saying a word, in fact).
All in all, this was more of a two-star experience, if that – but the cost of a stay here is very much five-star prices! Both the layout and décor of the room and the habit of carrying out nightly rounds every hour made me feel like I was staying in a prison. In fact, we were so disappointed and disconcerted by the practices at this property that we checked out two nights early and went to a proper five-star hotel, The Balmoral, just a few minutes away on foot. The only reason I gave this hotel a 2/10 rating was its brilliant location on St. Andrews Square.
The Balmoral, Princes Street (5-star property): 10/10
Photo courtesy of The Balmoral/Rocco Forte, Edinburgh
While I was annoyed about the inconvenience and cost of checking out early from Cheval, there was definitely a silver lining that came with this cloud – I discovered The Balmoral!
I was, of course, aware of this hotel, as it is an iconic landmark and a famous five-star property in Edinburgh. It was not on my list of places to review on this visit, but I’m so glad that I had the opportunity to stay there.
As soon as you walked in the doors, you knew you were in a five-star hotel. The doorman swiftly whisked our cases away with a cheery smile, there was a roaring fire in the lobby with armchairs, fabulous Christmas decorations, and an air of excitement throughout the lobby.
We’d booked a classic room via Expedia just a couple of hours earlier after we decided to leave the first hotel. When we arrived – well before the official check-in time – not only was a room ready for us, but we’d been upgraded to a Deluxe Room.
The room we were given was indeed deluxe – it was stunning and huge. There was a wonderful large settee piled with cushions, various tables, a huge bed, treats, a minibar, and books everywhere – just a fabulous and quirky room with so much character. My guest actually commented that when I walked into that room, it was the first time he’d seen me smile in a few days! The bathroom was equally luxurious, with a huge freestanding bath to relax in, as well as a shower and a range of luxury toiletries.
Bar Prince: photo courtesy of The Balmoral/Rocco Forte
We visited Bar Prince, the hotel bar, a few hours after checking in, and it was a buzzing place with a live pianist, talented bar staff, and the most delicious cocktails. Even if your cocktail of choice wasn’t on the extensive menu, they would create it for you. I also tried a delicious Irish coffee while I was there.
The reception team at The Balmoral was extremely professional, and they provided a top-tier service delivered with enthusiasm and a smile. While we didn’t get a chance to dine here during our stay, we ordered room service twice in one day for breakfast and in the evening. Both times, the service was prompt, the presentation was excellent, and the food was delicious.
Everything about The Balmoral was top-notch, and I am excited about doing a proper review when I stay here again. While it doesn’t come cheap, it is the perfect place for those who want luxury, excellent service, and stunning surroundings, as well as one of the best locations in the city. This hotel is definitely in the same league as places such as The Ritz and The Savoy.
Recommendations for Your Edinburgh Itinerary
Edinburgh is a city filled with exciting venues, attractions, and sights, so it is important to create an itinerary before you visit. We visited many places during our time in the city, and some of the highlights are listed below:
The Dome, George Street
The Dome is an iconic venue in Edinburgh’s New Town, and it is right next door to Le Monde Hotel on George Street. This sprawling venue attracts many tourists looking to take photos outside or enjoy the amenities inside, particularly during the festive season.
We visited The Dome several times during our stay – once for a drink at the stylish bar, once for a festive morning tea, and once for a wonderful dinner in stunning surroundings. It is worth noting that you need to book well in advance during the festive season. In fact, they released the bookings for Christmas 2023 in February 2023 due to their popularity!
This is not a cheap place to eat by any means, but it is a very beautiful venue. If you’re celebrating something special or coming to Edinburgh during the festive season, it is definitely worth a visit. Just remember to book as far in advance as possible if you are looking to book dinner in the Grill Room at busy times of the year!
The Witchery by the Castle, Original Dining Room
Image courtesy of The Witchery by the Castle
Another place that we loved was The Witchery by the Castle, which is indeed right by the famous Edinburgh Castle. This richly historical and Gothic venue is classed as a restaurant with rooms – while I’ve yet to stay in any of the rooms (which are all incredible suites), they look out of this world.
On this occasion, we visited the Original Dining Room for dinner, and it was such a stunning venue. The candlelight, dark mahogany, deep red leather seats, and décor made it feel like Gothic heaven. The service throughout our meal was excellent, and the food was delicious. It was such a cozy and inviting atmosphere that I didn’t feel like leaving at the end of dinner. As it was the festive season, the entire place was beautifully decorated, including the exterior.
There is another restaurant at this venue, which is the Secret Garden, and this also looked fabulous from what I could see. I will be visiting this restaurant later this year as well as staying in one of the suites, as I think this is definitely one of those bucket-list places that people remember for years to come.
Last Word Saloon, Stockbridge
Just ten minutes or so from the Old Town by taxi, The Last Word is a fabulous venue that is tucked away in Stockbridge. This is the perfect place to while away a couple of hours on a cold winter’s evening next to the fire, cocktail in hand (or whisky, in my case).
I was very keen to visit this venue, so I’d been emailing for months prior to my trip to Edinburgh. Anthony was extremely helpful in making the necessary arrangements for me, so I knew the service here was going to be good based on his excellent service and prompt communication beforehand.
Everything about this venue was magical, from the beautiful décor and ambiance to the roaring fire, excellent drinks, and overall vibe. While I had whiskey, my guest tried the cocktails, and they were delicious. The service was on-point throughout our 90 minutes before we had to rush to another booking. After spending time here, I felt so relaxed and calm – it was totally unrushed, soothing, and intimate.
Greyfriars Kirkyard Tour, Historic Edinburgh Tours
No trip to Edinburgh would be complete without taking at least one walking tour to really get a feel for the history of the city. One tour company that I highly recommend is Historic Edinburgh Tours, which offers private tours for individuals, couples, and groups at very reasonable prices.
We chose the Greyfriars Kirkyard tour, which was a comprehensive and fascinating tour of the kirkyard with our wonderful host, Robert Howie. On the day of our tour, it was grey and raining, but this seemed to make it all the more exciting. Robert had many great stories to tell and showed us all of the fascinating sights and headstones while providing information in a fun yet educational way.
One of the best things about this company is the flexibility offered. Robert was happy to answer any and all questions in the run-up to our trip. In addition, he changed the time of the tour (several times!) to suit my specific needs, which I thought was brilliant. He made us feel totally at ease, so we had no qualms about asking questions at any time during the tour. Normally, the thought of a private tour terrifies me because it’s one-on-one, but this was a wonderful, fun, and relaxed experience.
Black Rose Tavern, Rose Street
There is no doubt that Edinburgh is packed with fancy restaurants with high price tags. Sometimes, you just want comfort food at an affordable price – if so, head to the Black Rose Tavern on Rose Street in New Town. This is a place that we actually went to several times during our time in the city, as it does the most amazing baked potatoes with salad in a very relaxed and informal setting.
This is a rock venue, but during the day, the music is not loud or intrusive. In fact, it attracts people from all walks of life who head here for a relaxed drink or a tasty light meal. The interior is dark and intimate, yet buzzy and lively. We never had a problem getting a table during the day and early evening, and we loved the cocktails and shots as well as the food.
I already know that when we return to Edinburgh, this will be one of the first places I head to for a baked potato and to chill out for a while before we start to explore other areas of the city.
A Wonderful City with Plenty to Offer
Whether you’re after history and culture, entertainment and nightlife, or stunning surroundings, Edinburgh is a city that offers it all. This is a place that is well worth exploring, and you can look forward to a packed itinerary during your time here.
The wide range of hotels and venues means that there is something to cater to all budgets and preferences. Just be sure to do plenty of research before booking, as this will help to ensure you find the perfect base for your exciting trip to this magical capital city.
About the author
Reno Charlton is a freelance writer from the UK and has been creating content, articles, and blog posts since 2002. She has written for a wide range of publications across the world including the Huffington Post, and her specialist area is travel writing.
Reno has traveled to destinations and stayed at hotels around the world over the course of her career, and has reviewed many luxury hotels to help fellow travelers. She is also the published author of several children's books and short stories.
Want to find the perfect luxury hotel for your UK trip? Head to Reno’s YouTube channel, where you’ll find videos of some of the top luxury UK hotels to help you make the right choice. Reno’s videos are honest, unedited, and based on personal hotel experiences during her extensive travels to cities in the UK. Check out and subscribe to her across social media and start planning your next luxury UK trip!
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